Bangladeshis often find it challenging to single out the most distinctive dish in Bengali cuisine, among many delicious options like Bhorta, Biriyani, and fish curries.
What truly makes a dish unique is when the ingredients are particular to the region’s topography, much like how "Maple Syrup" comes from a Maple tree grown in the cold temperatures of Canada, "Durian" found in the tropical weather of Malaysian, and "Wagyu beef" with literally mean’s Japanese Cattle.
In that context, one dish differentiates Bangladeshi food from all other cuisines - and that Hilsha Fish or, in Bengali, “Ilish Mach.”
This article will delve deeper into why Hilsha is a national pride for Bangladesh.
Hilsha is unique to the Bengal Region:
Hilsha Fish is a citizen of the delta rivers connecting the Bay of Bengal. What sets the Hilsha caught from Bangladesh's Padma and Meghna rivers is its fat-to-protein ratio, which surpasses the quality of those caught in Myanmar or India’s West Bengal.
Hilsha is no ordinary fish; it is a species that has defied all attempts of farming heavily tried by both India and Bangladesh.
You might ponder, with the successful farming of many other river fish, what distinguishes the Hilsha that it cannot be farmed? The answer lies in two key factors:
1. Anadromous Life Cycle:
Hilsha follows an anadromous life cycle, a fish that spawns in a river and then migrates to the sea during adulthood. And then it again returns to the river, only to lay eggs and give birth to its next generation. This unique lifecycle makes it challenging to farm this fish in a confined area where the water salinity and pH are hard to vary.
2. Vegetarian Diet:
Unlike the Atlantic Salmon, which is also anadromous, the Hilsha is a vegetarian fish, primarily living on different plankton in rivers and oceans. Thus, when a Hilsha matures, their diet also changes. And if it is not released into the ocean, it ceases to grow—a gift of nature and its love for freedom.
The breakthrough of technology can map the genes of Hislsha and change its genomic sequence so that it does not have the urge to go into the ocean. Until that is achieved, the WILD and FREE Hilsha will be Bangladesh’s national treasure, and its finest specimens will exclusively be found in the estuary of Bangladesh’s delta.
3 Billion Dollar industry of Hilsha
Hilsha, due to its inability to be farmed, the limited catching seasons, and unmatched demand among Bengali, commands a premium price. This labor-intensive process, combined with demand from both sides of Bengal, makes the fish relatively expensive.
A video of Fishermen fighting the Bangladeshi monsoon to catch precious fish
The Hilsha from the river is far more tasty than the Hilsha from the sea. Thus, having the most delta channel, Bangladesh produces the best Hilsha fish.
The country produces 75% of the global supply, and around 2% of Bangladesh's population is directly or indirectly involved in the fishing industry, making Hilsha a $3 billion industry.
A good Hilsha is recognized by its
Oval shape
Shiny silver body
Greenish color near the head
Puffy eyes
Red gills
Fish not carrying Egg (even though I prefer with egg)
Such Hilsha can cost around $15 per kilogram or 1,500 Bangladeshi Taka per kilogram.
Hilsha: A Cultural Export Opportunity for Bangladesh
Growing up in the 90s, everyone in Bangladesh knew Macher Raja Elish and Battir Raja Philips. Hilsha is an indigenous delight in central Bengali rituals, traditions, and stories.
No one can imagine a Bengali New Year without Hilsha fish. It will be in the chart for the most gifted fish in Bangladesh, as it is part of the culture to give this fish during weddings, diplomatic relationships, and religious rituals.
It's quite amusing to see that even Bengali ghost folklore has references to the Hilsha fish. In Bangladeshi ghost stories, there's a character known as "Petni," who tracked young males carrying Hilsha Fish and possessed them to steal their favorite meal. 😋
Even though Hilsha remains the heart and soul of Bangladeshi culinary heritage, it is not as popular in international cuisine as Sardine or Salmon. The challenge lies in maintaining the freshness of Hilsha, as frozen fish lose their aromatic appeal over time.
The recent success of canned Hilsha fish can popularize this fish to a broader group. Perhaps, soon, we may see Hilsha Fish cakes featured as appetizers in upscale restaurants.
But nothing beats the pleasure of enjoying freshly fried Hilsha in mustard oil, right from the rivers of Bangladesh. That's why eating Hilsha by the Mawa Ghat (A river terminal in Bangladesh) is a must-do for tourists in Bangladesh.
So, if you're not from Bangladesh and reading this newsletter, put this delicious fish on your must-try list for a taste of real Bangladeshi food. Just be mindful of the bones!
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Excellent article and full of insights! Never knew the life cycle of Hilsa fish. Wow that's amazing.